Day 50: The samosa´s taking over the world
Priya Ramani -
Monday, June 02, 2008 6:12 AM
It´s official, the samosa is the new Genghis Khan.
Today, when we reluctantly wandered into town for dinner because the chef at Banana Azul, where we are staying, had her weekly off, we saw an all-you-can-eat meal lead starring The Samosa.
Samosas have shadowed us everywhere. In New Zealand´s food courts, where unsuspecting locals pair the giant beasts with unrecognizable red or brown curries; in Vancouver´s Granville Island, nestled amongst heart shaped cookies and apple tarts--I´m happy to report we haven´t succumbed even once, though the husband came close when he saw a kheema samosa in Los Angeles.
Anyhow, so there we were at Chilli Rojo, one of the hottest restaurants in Puerto Viejo because yours truly had finally got fed up of authentic Costa Rican food.
I was gassy that´s why.
Authentic vegetarian food here is essentially gallo-pinto, ie chawli like beans or small black beans mixed with rice and some fresh herbs--for breakfast lunch and dinner. With some fried plantains and salad on the side. The husband now he´ll walk into the first sushi restaurant he encounters but me, I´ll say: Costa Rica is about the sodas run by local women. Let´s go to Luisa´s or Isma´s or whatever lady´s quaint eatery comes our way.
The sodas have amazing fish. Great chicken. Hey the husband even got a whole red snapper Carribean coconut curry at a roadside stall today (the best meal, he declared).
See photos below--the Rastafarian and the curry he was dishing out.
But for vegetarians, the Costa Ricas have only one offering--lots of beans. I´m almost reminded of the time my pal Nilu and me toured Tuscany. All I ate was Penne Arrabiata and artichokes while she devoured boars, rabbits and godknows what else.
Of course Costa Rica has amazing fruits. And great juices. Innumerable varieties of mangoes. It´s been fun but today, I was finally ready for some Thai curry.
So we hit Chilli Rojo. The propreitor´s been to Bombay once, when he was six, for a day. His memories of that night are of blackouts, wartime, and running after the hotel watchman as he struggled to draw the curtains.
So it was an all-you-can-eat Indian night. First the appetizers--a larger than life samosa, a pakora and pappadums. Then a plateful of rice with zillions of curries--beef, cauliflower, brinjal and whatnot.
We drank sangria, ate tuna and Thai curry. Bliss.
Today we went to Punta Uva, literally Grape Point, and one of the best beaches in the world, according to Travel and Leisure magazine. It was a Sunday so the beach was buzzing--the husband counted 16 people and two dogs. Costa Rica´s beaches are amazing because it´s literally a case of jungle meets sea. So forests line most of the beaches on this Caribbean coast. Photo: The beach of Punta Uva
It´s easy to communicate, especially when you´re a woman who tans nicely. And my Spanish vocabulary is improving. Sample this:
Uno Imperial--One Imperial beer
Tostadas--Gorgeous corn bread toast, for when I can´t eat any more beans
Soda--Eatery run by local woman, and yes, it is always a woman though her husband might help with serving.
Photo: Soda Isma, one our favourite spots, drinking fresh mango juice overlooking the town beach, and Isma herself, who gladly posed for a photo after the husband said something flattering about her food.
Ola--Hello, all purpose greeting
Vegetarian (pronounced vekhetaarian), no pescado, no huevos--vegetarian, no fish, no eggs (because, like most places in the world, these are considered vegetarian)
Gracias--Thank you
Taxi--Taxi
Hugo--Juice
Now I´m off to bed with the blissful background sound of the sea. Did I tell you our room overlooks the sea?