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Day 84-88: In search of Africa's Big Five

Lion. Leopard. Elephant. Buffalo. Rhinoceros. The Big Five that top every African tourist's been there, seen that list. After yesterday's health scare, I'm feeling slightly more charitable towards Willem. I don't envy his job - he's...
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Day 83: A wild introduction to the other South Africa

I don't know what we were expecting but it certainly wasn't an Afrikaner with a Tom Selleck moustache, a blond ponytail and a tatoo high on his left thigh that doubled up as his visiting card: Master Tracker it read, like the pieces on a scrabble...

Day 73: Meeting Gandhi in Lima

Considering this is the city where middle aged women zip around in Bajaj autorickshaws labelled The Tigers of San Miguel and curvy bikini-clad women on signboards exhort you to drink Brahma beer, it shouldn´t have surprised us that we bumped into Gandhi...
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Day 68: Crazy Peruvians on the train or why we love Peru

This is probably how an advertisement for Peru Rail would read: Wanted cabin attendants. Must have experience in service industry. Must be well-groomed. Must know folk dances and have previous ramp experience. Today, on the train back from Machu Picchu...

Day 67: Machu Picchu or the Taj Mahal? Who got your vote?

I already know the answer to that question. In last year´s frenzied email polling, you voted for the Taj Mahal as the seventh wonder of the world. Why? Well, because it was Indian of course. India is great. The Taj is amazing. India´s best monuments are...

Day 62: Sandboarding and some stress above the Nasca Lines

( Photo: The oasis at Ica. Now they boat on the water but originally it was known for its medicinal powers ) The pace has increased dramatically in Peru. After the Islands we hopped right back on our vintage Landcruiser and sped further south to the natural...
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Day 58/59: Walking on treetops in a tropical storm

Apart from watching the volcano -- in awe and, yes, I admit, in fear -- we had a lot of time to walk and explore the lush meadows and tropical rain forests around us and watch how people go about their lives. The natural wonders of this country are without...

Day 57: Rumblings and ramblings

( Photo: The husband became a hummingbird stalker in Arenal, but this picture made my day ) We awoke to the sound of birds. Half a dozen hummingbirds were buzzing in the flowering bushes outside our window. A Mumbai taxi-coloured Toucan sat in the tree...

Day 55: Bye bye Puerto Viejo

6am, last morning, Puerto Viejo Puerto Viejo was relaxing as can be. We´re happy we discarded our original plan of zipping through the entire country and settled down in this little town on the Caribbean or Talamanca coast. Though we spent a LOT of time...

Day 54: Snorkelling, "a laang way fram home"

Today, I had one of my best meals on this holiday. Today, I struggled to have a conversation in English. The meal was two large red snappers in a Caribbean coconut curry, flavoured with rosemary, whole pepper, Jamaican allspice, a light-green local chilly...

Day 53: Pursuits of a vacant mind

Just one pursuit actually. Today I went for a walk on the beach and encountered these flat bleached shells that looked like parts of a broken necklace swept ashore. They turned out to be sand dollars ( Photo: My gift for my niece Tara ). Here´s what Wiki...

Day 52: Riding waves, riding horses

The last time I clambered onto a horse was nearly 28 years ago in the Kashmir valley. So, I was a little more than tentative when I tried to mount Houdini -- a calm, easygoing horse kept aside precisely for beginners like me -- on a ranch inside a Costa...

Day 50: The samosa´s taking over the world

It´s official, the samosa is the new Genghis Khan. Today, when we reluctantly wandered into town for dinner because the chef at Banana Azul, where we are staying, had her weekly off, we saw an all-you-can-eat meal lead starring The Samosa. Samosas have...

Day godknowswhat: Me Jane, everyone else Tarzan

( Photo: Husband launches himself into the great green, about 80 m above the ground ) My stomach muscles still hurt after yesterday´s activity. Canopying, they call it in Costa Rica. It´s not supposed to make your stomach muscles hurt, but maybe I was...

Day 48: The joys of nothing, Puerto Viejo

Take a look at the gentlemen in the photo below. They reminded us of the joy of doing, well, nothing. If it sounds to you like that´s what we´re doing through this 90-day journey, you couldn´t be more wrong. We´ve been on the move: travel, packing, transport...
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