Lahore's cosmopolitan spirit is under attack. Not by malevolent mortals this time, but by a thick pall of pollution reminiscent of pre-CNG Delhi. The electricity plays hookey too, and generators, it is said, are a brisk business. During the day, the heat is oppressive, singing my silver earrings...

The idea of waking up in Lahore is something you’ve held onto for most of your life, a small little secret, tightly guarded, only to be shared with the few who breathe the same unspoken dream. Half of you even hopes this will never come true. Oh to wake up in Lahore and walk through Anarkali bazaar,...